Suggestions for Adding Nikon 1 Kit Components

Ever since the Nikon 1 system was discontinued in July I’ve been receiving plenty of emails from owners looking for suggestions about the best bodies and lenses to add to their kit so they can extend its useful life.  As photographers we all have our own, unique needs when it comes to camera gear. What follows are some suggestions for Nikon 1 kit components that could be considered, based on a photographer’s priorities and shooting style. These suggestions could act as at least a starting point. Other Nikon owners may have other recommendations of course which I encourage them to share with their comments.

Inexpensive and Flexible Basic System
Suggested body: Any older S-Series, J-Series or V1.
Suggested lenses: Kit 10-30 mm f/3.5-5.6 zoom (PD or non-PD), 30-110 mm f/3.8-5.6 zoom, and 18.5 mm f/1.8 prime
Advantages: Combination of two zoom lenses provides 10 mm to 110 mm focal length flexibility with an equivalent field of view of 27 mm to 297 mm. 18.5 mm f/1.8 prime provides ‘nifty-fifty’ functionality and lower light capability. Older S-Series and J-Series bodies are typically quite attractively priced on the used market. If you shoot mainly jpegs and use automatic settings the lack of external controls will likely not be much of an issue. V1 provides a viewfinder.

Video Emphasis Kit
Suggested body: Nikon 1 V2
Suggested lenses: 10 mm f/2.8, 18.5 mm f/1.8, 32mm f/1.2, 10-100 mm PD f/4.5-5.6 power zoom.
Advantages: Prime lenses provide good sharpness and lower light capability. 10 mm f/2.8 is somewhat restricted by f/2.8 aperture but is still a very functional lens. 18.5 mm f/1.8 and 32 mm f/1.2 are both solid performers with the 32 mm f/1.2 an excellent lower light solution. 10-100 mm f/4/5-5/6 PD zoom has a smooth operating power zoom that can add some interest to video segments. Some care needs to be taken as the lens can shift exposures slightly, but noticeably, when long zoom pulls or pushes are done. Exposure and focal lock button on the back of the V2 works very well. Built-in EVF on the V2 allows for the use of a shotgun or other mic when the viewfinder is being used. The Nikon 1 V2 is the closest match to Nikon DSLRs in terms of measured ISO performance for multiple camera situations. It should be noted that Nikon 1 bodies are not designed to capture long continuous video clips and will overheat after 15-20 minutes of continuous use.

Unobtrusive Street Photography Kit
Suggested body: Nikon 1 J5
Suggested lens: 10-30 mm f/3.5-5.6 PD zoom or 6.7-13 mm f/3.5-5.6 zoom.
Advantages: Small and flexible as long as you don’t need a viewfinder. J5 has the best performing sensor in any Nikon 1 body making it the best choice for high contrast situations. 10-30 mm PD zoom is compact and a decently sharp lens. 6.7-13 mm provides more wide angle flexibility for city streets and architecture photography, while providing excellent sharpness.

All-in-One Kit
Suggested body: Nikon 1 J5 or Nikon 1 V3
Suggested lens: 10-100 mm f/4-5.6 non-PD zoom
Advantages: 10-100 mm f/4-5.6 provides very functional focal length coverage with an equivalent field of view of 27-270 mm. While not a top performer optically the lens is solidly built and delivers great all-in-one functionality. If you need a viewfinder along with a flip screen the V3 is a good option. The all-in-one kit would meet the basic travel photography needs of many people.

Extended Travel Kit
Suggested body: Two Nikon 1 J5s and V2 or V3.
Suggested lenses: 6.7-13 mm f/3.5-5.6, 10-100 mm /4-5.6 non-PD, CX 70-300 mm f/4.5-5.6
Advantages: Pair of J5s, each mounted with either 6.7-13 mm or 10-100 mm provides great flexibility without having to switch out lenses when on a tight travel shooting schedule. 20.8 MP BSI sensor in the J5 is the best performing sensor in any Nikon 1 body making it ideal for landscape, street photography and other typical travel situations. CX 70-300 mm extends the shooting range to an equivalent field of view of 810 mm and is best suited to be used with a viewfinder equipped camera like the V2 or V3.

Augmented Travel Kit
Suggested body: Same as extended travel kit
Suggested lenses: Same as extended travel kit with the addition of 30-110 mm f/3.8-5.6 with extension tubes as well as 18.5 mm f/1.8, and Nikon 1 flash and GPS units.
Advantages: Adds lower light capability with f/1.8 prime and flash unit, close-up photography potential, and GPS tracking.

Portrait Kit
Suggested body: Nikon 1 J5
Suggested lens: 32 mm f/1.2 prime
Advantages: J5 has best performing sensor of any Nikon 1 camera in terms of both dynamic range and colour depth. 32 mm f/1.2 provides an equivalent field of view of 86 mm which is ideal for portraits. The lens is excellent optically and provides the best potential for bokeh.

Close-up Photography Kit
Suggested body: Nikon 1 J5 or Nikon 1 V3
Sugested lens: 30-110 mm f/3.8-5.6 with a set of extension tubes (e.g. 10 mm, 16 mm, 20 mm)
Advantages: Nikon 1 J5 has best performing sensor and better external controls than any other J-Series or S-Series body, and also has highest resolution sensor at 20.8 MP. V3 has a flip up screen as well as having a viewfinder. If that combination of features is needed the V3 is the best choice. 30-110 mm is quite a good lens optically and provides practical camera-to-subject working distances for close-up photography.

Nature/Birding Kit
Suggested body: Nikon 1 V2 or V3
Suggested lens: CX 70-300 mm f/4.5-5.6
Advantages: CX 70-300 is excellent optically and provides an equivalent field of view of 189-810 mm in a lightweight package. V2 and V3 bodies have viewfinders and provide very good continuous auto-focus frame rates of 15 frames per second (V2), and 10 or 20 frames per second (V3). Bodies can also shoot at 30 or 60 frames per second with the first frame locking focus for the balance of the run. This capability can be put to good use when photographing birds taking off or landing. In lower light situations the V2 acquires auto focus better than the V3 and is more consistent holding auto-focus.

Flower Photography Kit
Suggested body: Nikon 1 J5
Suggested lenses: 10-100 mm f/4-5.6 non-PD, 30-110 mm f/3.8-5.6, 32 mm f/1.2, extension tubes (10 mm, 16 mm, 20 mm)
Advantages: Nikon 1 J5 delivers the best sensor performance making it ideal for high contrast flower photography as well as rendering subtle colour differentiation of blossoms. 10-100 mm has a comparatively short minimum focusing distance making it a practical lens for composing images of sections of a garden, groupings of flowers, or individual blossoms. 30-110 mm works very well with extension tubes for close-up flower photography, while the 32 mm f/1.2 brings potential for bokeh and additional creative latitude.

Landscape Photography Kit
Suggested body: Nikon 1 J5
Lenses: 6.7-13 mm f/3.5-5.6, 10-30 mm f/3.5-5.6 non-PD, 30-110 mm f/3.8-5.6
Advantages: Superior dynamic range and colour depth of J5 sensor is a standout for landscape photography especially when used at ISO-400 and under. 6.7-13 mm wide angle zoom is the workhorse lens for many landscape photographers who use the Nikon 1 system with its very good optics and colour rendition. Combination of 10-30 mm f/3-5-5.6 and 30-110 mm f/3.8-5.6 is preferred over the 10-100 mm f/4-5.6 mainly due to better optics of 30-110 mm. 10-30 mm f/3.5-5.6 PD does not accept filters which can be a problem for many photographers although the lens is a bit sharper than the non-PD version. Using this combination of three lenses means that the 10-30 mm non-PD would only have to be used over 13 mm and below 30 mm, thus taking advantage of the better optics of the 6.7-13 mm and 30-110 mm.

NOTE to readers on the 10-30 mm PD zoom:
One of our readers (Chuck Morris) has a solution for the 10-30 PD zoom in terms of adapting it for use with filters. “Buy a Nikon UR-E23 filter adapter (40.5mm) from B&H for under ten dollars. File or sand away the protruberances so all surfaces are smooth. Affix carefully to front of lens with Scotch Heavy Duty Weatherproof double-sided mounting tape. You`re done! For a lens hood, scrounge up a used Nikon HNCP17 (B&H). 40.5mm filters are readily available in all forms from Hoya and B+H.”

Underwater Photography
Suggested body: Nikon 1 J4
Suggested lens: 10-30 mm f/3.5-5.6 PD zoom and WP-N3 underwater housing
Advantages: The Nikon 1 AW1 is prone to water infiltration and some owners are already reporting that they have been unable to get their bodies repaired. The Nikon 1 J4 with WP-N3 underwater housing provides more reliability. Nikon 1 underwater housings can be found at heavily discounted prices at some retailers.

Best Two Body Combination
Suggested body: Nikon 1 J5 and V2
Advantages: Nikon 1 J5 provides the best sensor performance and is ideal for all kinds of photography but is difficult to use effectively with the CX 70-300 mm f/4.5-5.6 due to its lack of a viewfinder and smaller buffer. The Nikon 1 V2 acquired focus faster and holds it better than the V3. The built-in viewfinder on the V2 allows a flash or mic to be used at the same time as the viewfinder. While overall handling of the V2 does not match the V3, the lack of a detachable grip makes battery changes much faster and easier.

Best All Round Functional Body
Suggested body: Nikon 1 V2
Advantages: Built-in viewfinder allows the V2 to be used with an external mic or GPS while using the viewfinder. Has decent external controls and is an effective camera for video work. Lack of flip up rear screen does limit functionality somewhat.

Best Image Quality Body
Suggested body: Nikon 1 J5
Advantages: 20.8 MP BSI sensor has best dynamic range and colour depth of any Nikon 1 body. Reasonable external controls allows adjustment of shutter speed, aperture and ISO for good handling characteristics. To get this improved sensor performance users must be prepared to give up a viewfinder.

Best Handling Body
Suggested body: Nikon 1 V3 with EVF and Grip
Advantages: When equipped with the detachable grip the V3 provides the most DSLR-like shooting experience in terms of the number of external body controls, including back button focus. The detachable EVF does limit the use of flash and GPS attachments and the detachable grip makes battery replacement a bit more complex.

If you enjoyed this article and would like to learn more about the Nikon 1 system, you may want to have a look at our eBook, The Little Camera That Could. It illustrates the capability of the Nikon 1 system through hundreds of original photographs. There is also commentary and tips about the Nikon 1 system. The cost is $9.99 Canadian.

 

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47 thoughts on “Suggestions for Adding Nikon 1 Kit Components”

  1. Pentax fast glass ideas?!

    http://www.ricoh-imaging.co.jp/english/products/catalog/pdf/2012_PENTAX_MV_eng.pdf

    Refer to Page 9.
    F1.4 @ 12.5 or 25mm
    Looks potentially interesting for use with c type adapter
    Like C-N1 from fotodiox
    ——————————-+
    Hi Tom,
    I understand this is only a manual focus option but..

    Could you or any of your readers comment on any of these Pentax industrial lenses used in machine vision cctv etc.
    and specifically designed for 1” sensors.

    I understand these are “cheap” at about 100£ new or less used.

  2. Hello Tom,

    Have you used a teleconverter with either J5, V3 or V2? If so which one would you recommend? Please share your reviews or experience using teleconverters. I guess to use teleconverter I will need to get an adaptor, correct me if I am wrong.

    Thank you

    Bubba Crowley
    Baton Rouge, LA

    1. Hi Bubba,

      Yes, you would need to buy an FT-1 adaptor in order to use a teleconverter with a Nikon 1 body and an F-Mount lens. You will need to be careful since not all F-Mount lenses can use a teleconverter, and not all third party lenses will work with a Nikon 1 body.

      Early on when I first started using the Nikon 1 system I used a Nikkor 1.7X teleconverter with the FT-1 adaptor and the F-Mount Nikkor 70-200 f/4 zoom lens. The results were OK, but there was noticeable softness and the auto-focus was a bit slower. It was OK for static subjects but not particularly good for birds in flight. Once I bought the 1 Nikkor CX 70-300 mm f/4.5-5.6 I quickly decided that there was no point in using the F-Mount lens and teleconverter as the optical performance and auto-focusing were far superior with the native Nikon 1 zoom lens.

      I suppose the Nikkor 1.4X teleconverter could have generated better results… but I never owned that teleconverter. I bought my first Nikon 1 V2 in August of 2013 and completely switched over to the Nikon 1 system, selling all of my Nikon full frame gear in July 2015, so it has been quite a while since I’ve owned and used a DSLR.

      Tom

  3. Hi! Thomas & Friends,

    Has anyone of you been able to compile list of Nikon 1 lens that have had most problems and needed frequent visits to the repair lab.? I’ve heard the 32 mm is the most problematic.

    Also does Nikon 1 V3 and J5 have auto-sensor cleaning options? If so how to navigate through the menus to get to it.

    Thank you
    Kamran

    1. Hi Kamran,

      The link will take you to a recent article, part of which details the repair history of my Nikon 1 gear: https://tomstirrphotography.com/nikon-1-kit-update. My 32 mm f/1.2 recently needed warranty repair as the aperture became stuck with the lens in stopped down mode. My most problematic lens has been the CX 70-300 mm.

      I am not aware of an auto-sensor cleaning option with Nikon 1 cameras. I regularly use an eyelead gel stick to clean the sensors in my Nikon 1 gear.

      Tom

  4. Thank you Tom. From your above comment I gather that adding 6.7-13 mm, 18.5 mm and 10-100 PD Zoom to my existing 10-100 f/4-5.6 should suffice for now. Both 32 mm and 70-300 seem to be out of my price range at the moment.

  5. Good Morning Mr. Stirr,

    I am 13 years old, before I could tell my Dad that Nikon had discontinued Nikon 1, my Dad sensing my interest in photography gifted me not 1 but 2 Nikon 1 J5 and along with that host of Nikon 1 lenses and FT1 adaptor & Nikon 1000 LED Movie light (Btw before I received this Nikon 1 as gift less than a month ago, I used to take pictures with my Samsung Galaxy smartphone with 2 wide angle lenses).

    I love taking pictures of fast moving objects (cars, bikes, motorcycles) , city skyline and random people, street festivals etc. I am also interested in taking portrait’s (but don’t know what gears I need for that).

    Currently , my gear consists of:

    – Nikkor 30-110 mm f/ 3.5 – 5.6 VR Lens x 2 – (Black & White)
    – Nikkor 11- 27.5 mm f/ 3.5 – 5.6 Non- VR
    – Nikkor 6.7 -13 mm f/ 3.5 – 5.6 VR
    – Nikkor 10 mm f/2.8 VR
    – Nikkor 18.5 mm f/1.2 VR
    – Nikkor 10- 100 mm f/ 3.5 – 5.6 VR PD ZOOM

    The two 30-110 mm came as Kit lens with my J5 and 11 -27.5 was gifted to me by my neighbor who too once owned Nikon 1 camera (S3).

    Would you please recommend what lenses should I keep and what I should add? Are 2 lenses of same focal length one too many? Should I trade 11-27.5 for 10 -30 mm PD Zoom or non-zoom? I have $800 received as gift on my 13th birthday which I can use to add to this gear.

    Since, I am underaged, my cousin has listed one of the 30-110 mm lens on Facebook Marketplace & is receiving offers. I read somewhere in one of your articles that 11-27.5 mm being non VR is little cumbersome to use so i want my cousin to list that too but, not before I hear from you.

    Truly appreciate your advise. Please, reply as soon as you can.

    Warm greetings,
    Omi

    1. Hi Omi,

      It looks like to have a very nice Nikon 1 kit! The lenses that you have will allow you to photograph a wide range of subject matter.

      Since the Nikon 1 system has been discontinued there is nothing wrong with having more than one copy of a particular lens. You have two copies of the 30-110 mm which isn’t necessarily a bad thing. The 30-110 mm is a very good lens to use with extension tube for close-up photography. If you were going to spend some of your birthday money investing in some extension tubes for Nikon 1 may make sense if you want to do some close up photography. The 30-110 is a good beginner lens to use for bird photography.

      While I have never owned or used the 11-27.5 mm lens I know that many Nikon 1 owners like this lens even though it doesn’t have vibration reduction. Many people find it a bit sharper than the 10-30 mm PD and non-PD lenses. If you wanted to try to sell your 11-27.5 zoom and replace it with a 10-30 mm you would get the benefit of vibration reduction, trading off a bit of lens sharpness in return.

      There is no reason why you could not use some of the lenses you already have to do some portrait photography. Typically a Nikon 1 focal length of 30 – 40 mm is what many folks would use for portraits. You have a few lenses that would cover this range.

      If you wanted another fast Nikon 1 prime lens you could look at the 32 mm f/1.2. This is an expensive lens which has had a bit of durability issues with the aperture getting stuck in the stopped down position. I know some readers are having trouble getting their 32mm f/1.2 repaired. Unless you were going to do a whole lot of portrait work and needed shallow depth-of-field this is a lens that may be hard to justify.

      You could consider finding a Nikon 1 body with an EVF, like a good, used V2 or a V3. This would be better suited to photograph fast moving subjects. This type of Nikon 1 body could be married up with a 1 Nikkor CX 70-300 mm f/4.5-5.6 zoom lens which is a great lens for wildlife and birding. The 70-300 is a very popular Nikon 1 lens and it may be quite difficult to find one.

      I don’t know how many batteries you have for your J5s. You may want to buy another 3-4 batteries to help ensure you can power your bodies for quite a few more years.

      Hope this has helped you.

      Tom

      1. Mr. Stirr,

        Thank you for your suggestion. So from your reply I gather I should keep my current gears and add a V3 to supplement it. Yes I found cost of both 32 mm and 70-300 beyond my budget. Also reassuring to know that my current gears should serve me well for all that I want to achieve.

        Btw I have 2 batteries that came with the camera. As I see they are rather expensive so should I buy OEM’s? They are way more cheaper ($8 V $44). Also should I add 10 – 100 VR non PD? And what is an extension tube? I cannot see that on Nikons website. I see this Nikon 52mm D-SLR Close Up Lens for NIKKOR Lenses, is this what you mean? Shall I buy this?

        Any filters suggestion woukd help aswell.

        I will use your link to buy so that it helps promote the good work you are doing.

        Respectfully yours,
        Omi

        1. Hi Omi,

          Yes, I think the gear you already have will serve you well in terms of the subject matter you enjoy photographing. An extension tube shortens the minimum focusing distance of a lens so that it can be used for close up photography. They are now harder to find for Nikon 1. Here is a link to a posting on another website that explains the use of extension tubes quite well: https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4101474

          The 10-100 mm f/4-5.6 non-PD is a very flexible, ‘all-round’ lens that many Nikon 1 owners (including me) quite like using. Buying one would be more practical than going for a 10-300 mm as it gives you more local length range. It is much smaller and lighter than the 10-100 PD lens you already own.

          Whether you want to buy OEM batteries or knock-offs is a personal choice. I only use OEM batteries in my gear, but that’s a judgement call you can make. You will definitely want more than just 2 batteries if you want your Nikon 1 to stay serviceable for at least a few more years.

          I have a close up lens that fits some of my Nikon 1 gear, but I don’t find it particularly good to use. I think you would be far better off with some extension tubes for close up work.

          In terms of filters it really depends what you want to do with your gear. I use good quality UV filters on all of my lenses to help protect them from damage. Don’t buy cheap filters as they can have a negative impact on image quality. If you can afford them, buy B+W or higher end Hoya filters or similar. You can also look for some neutral density filters if you plan on shooting video outdoors or want to slow shutter speeds down for ‘smooth water’ waterfall or river images. Polarizing filters help to eliminate glare from windows and from the surface of water. Those are the typical filters that most photographers would own.

          Tom

          1. Thank you sir. I will upload my pictures once I have shot enough with these cameras. I woukd like you to evaluate them.

            Regards,
            Omi

            1. Hi Omi,

              I’m sure you enjoy your Nikon 1 and have fun experimenting with it! There is no need to provide me with a link to your images. My schedule is such that I really don’t have the time to evaluate photographs… Sorry.

              Tom

        1. Hi Omi,

          I have never used this product so I’m unable to give you any suggestion. In inclement weather I typically use a standard weather sleeve which completely covers the camera and lens. I’m not sure how well that silicone case would work with rain hitting the top of the camera and infiltrating down through the various controls on the top of the camera since these are not weather sealed.

          Tom

            1. Sorry Omi… I was moving a bit too fast and inadvertently overlooked that part of your question!

              I only use SanDisk Extreme or Extreme PLUS micro-SD cards in my Nikon 1 gear. All of my micro-SD cards are 32 GB.

              Tom

              1. Mr. Stirr,

                Any particular reason you use only 32 GB? I have problem with my EVo plus 128 GB it kind of lags when I shoot in burst mode therefore want your advise.

                Thank you
                Omi

                1. Hi Omi,

                  I find that SanDisk 32 GB Extreme and Extreme PLUS give me a nice balance between performance, size, price and risk. When buying memory cards always look at the write speed of the card, this can help your buffer clearing time. I like 32 GB cards as I don’t have too many files at risk if a card were to fail, and 32 GB will usually suffice when I’m out shooting for a day.

                  Tom

                  1. Thank you Mr. Stirr. You truly are a gem of a person. I cannot thank you enough, I bless my stars for having chanced upon your website.

                    At the moment the Evo Plus that have says 95/90. 95/Read and 90/ Write. Not sure if it actually is delivering as advertised.

                    Good Night
                    Omi

                    1. Hi Omi,

                      I’ve always preferred to use cards that are on the manufacturer’s recommended list for a specific camera. The only memory card brands I’ve ever bought have been from SanDisk and Lexar… this also goes back to the days when I owned DSLRs. A number of years ago I had repeated Lexar SD card failures used with my DSLRs, and also some manufacturing defects with Compact Flash cards from that brand. So I stopped using Lexar products and began buying SanDisk cards exclusively. Any memory card can fail of course, but I’ve never had any problems with a SanDisk card, regardless of the format. I have no first hand experience with Evo Plus cards so I can’t comment on them specifically.

                      It is always a pleasure to try to help a reader! No need to call me “Mr. Stirr”… I’m old… but not that old. 🙂

                      Tom

    2. Hello Mr. Tom,

      I am looking to buy a tripod for my Nikon 1 J5’s do you have any suggestions? Currrently I own Amazon Basic 60″ tripod which kind of seems wobbly & unstable when I use my Zoom.

      Also, wanted to inform you that my Aunt gifted me a nice Nikon 1 Nikkor 70-300 mm which is incredibly beautiful lens.

      Thank you,

      Omi

      1. Hi Omi,

        Most of us make the same mistake when buying a tripod, choosing one based on price more than on strength and capability. I haven’t bought any tripods for quite a while as I’m well served with the 6 that I currently own. Rather than suggest a specific tripod, it may be better if I gave you a few things to consider instead.

        1) Leg construction. You will need to consider if you want legs made of aluminium, steel, basalt or carbon fibre. Leg construction impacts overall weight and portability. If you plan doing long hikes with your camera gear, you’ll want a tripod made of a lighter weight material like carbon fibre. These will cost more than a typical aluminium leg tripod. My three main tripods all have carbon fibre construction. You will also want to consider the number of leg sections and the overall height of the tripod. The general rule of thumb is that the few the number of leg sections, the more stable and strong the tripod will be.

        2) Leg adjustment mechanism. There are two basic types, twist locks or snaps. Both work equally well. It really depends on how frequently you will be adjusting the height of your tripod. If you don’t use it much, then twist locks will be perfectly fine. If you do frequent height adjustments, then using a tripod with snap locks will be more efficient. You will have to periodically tighten the snap locks. My three main tripods all have snap locks, as does my monopod.

        3) Weight rating. You will need to make sure that any tripod you buy has a weight rating higher than all of the gear you plan to mount on the tripod. This includes a tripod head, flashes, camera body, lens, and video gear such as sliders and jibs.

        4) Tripod head. There are various types of tripod heads depending on how you will be using your camera gear. Two of the most popular heads are ball-heads and pan-tilt heads. If you want to be able to do fast adjustments, you may want to consider a pistol grip. If you plan on doing video work you will need to buy a tripod head specifically designed for this purpose. I have a number of different heads that I use for different camera applications.

        5) Centre Column. Most tripods have a centre column that can be raised up in situations where you need your camera at a higher level. Some centre columns can be removed so the tripod can work very close to ground level, while other tripods have centre columns that can be adjusted to various angles. Again, it really depends on the type of work you plan to do with your tripod. Macro work often is made much easier when using a tripod that has a centre column that can be adjusted to a wide variety of angles.

        6) Tripod feet. Better quality tripods allow the feet to be changed for indoor or outdoor use.

        Hope this has helped.

        Tom

  6. A rather belated ‘thank you’ for this list Tom.

    I have used the outline to help me buy some second hand lens and cameras, namely 2 V2s, with associated PD kit lenses, 30-110mm lenses, the newer flash, some extension tubes, and 18.5mm lens (the main reason for the purchase).

    In a separate purchase, I bought the 10-100 PD lens based on your recommendations.

    Finally, to provide a waterproof option, I purchased a Meikon Underwater cover for the J5. It is very bulky and I won’t be diving with it but the case could be helpful in extreme weather conditions or taking photos close to the sea here in Sydney.

    Keep up your inspiring articles and I can’t wait for your New Zealand ebooks.

    John

    1. Hi John,

      I’m glad that the article has been helpful for you! You’ve certainly added quite a bit of gear to your kit. Those purchases should help extend its overall lifespan. My first eBook on New Zealand is slowly coming to completion. Given my rather hectic schedule with articles here, supporting my ongoing client work, and trying to carve out some personal time… it has taken longer than I had hoped. Unless something unforeseen occurs it does look like I have a decent break from pressing deadlines for about a week or so. Hopefully that will be sufficient to finish the project.

      Tom

      1. It is marvel how you make time for your articles, work life, family life and book writing. Thanks for all you do for the Nikon 1 community.

        John

  7. Thanks once again for an excellent catalogue of suggestions Thomas but also (unfortunately?) providing impetus to spend more money. I was lucky enough to come across someone selling a J5 with the 10-100, unopened, for less than $600 AUD. This basically completes the collection for me and it rounds out such a versatile, practical kit. Very impressed with early results from the J5 too, particularly with the 32mm f1.2.

    1. Hi Philip,

      Sorry that you got bitten by the ‘buying bug’…temptation is ever lurking when it comes to GAS! On the positive side it sounds like you are really enjoying the J5! If you have some extension tubes the J5 with the 32 mm f/1.2 with a short tube makes for a very creative combination when shooting blossoms at f/1.2.

      Tom

      1. Thanks Tom, I shall give the extension tubes a try with the J5. The crispness of the images so far is really pleasing. Meanwhile, you mentioned that you had chattering autofocus issues with the 70-300mm. I have the same problem with my copy. Was it a straightforward repair? Or should I be looking for a new one?

        1. Hi Philip,
          I’ve had my 1 Nikkor 70-300 mm repaired under warranty three times. In each case Nikon Canada did the repair very quickly so I didn’t experience any significant issues in terms of wait times or cost. Once my lens(es) are out of warranty I don’t know what to expect. I bought a second 1 Nikkor 70-300 mm as part of my future-proofing plan. This second lens was a Nikon factory refurbished unit.
          Tom

  8. Hi Tom
    Thanks for your catalog. For me it comes “only” as a confirmation. Over time I “ebayed” nearly everything in two copies. (Even the bloody big Zacuto and the lighter Hoodman) Sadly, 70-300 is still not cheaper over here. Luckily, mine one and only is still ok. I do not shake it, so I cannot hear nothing suspicious 😉
    I stilll use FF more, but Nikon 1 gets proper share.
    Keep up your work, regards
    Robert

    1. Thanks for adding to the discussion Robert – its good to hear that your Nikon 1 gear is still getting its fair share! I still have a small number of things to sell from my full frame days including a Zacuto and the odd battery charger.
      Tom

  9. I can add when I photograph in bad weather, storm, rain and big waves. Then the Nikon 1 AW1 is unique and a useful tool.
    I have never dived with AW1, but heavy rain and spray from big waves can withstand it very well and you can rinse AW1 in the tap in the bathroom when you get home.
    I’m also using lenshood LH-N103 to reduce the rain drops on the front of the 11-27.5 zoom, but always have the lenscloth ready when I’m in the rain and storm to take pictures.

    1. Hi Jan-Aage,
      Thank you for sharing your experiences with the AW-1! It is positive to learn that you have been experiencing good reliability with the AW-1 in inclement weather. It is much smaller and lighter than using a waterproof housing with a regular Nikon 1 camera body.
      Tom

  10. I’ve had some success with using a J5 with an Elvid OptiView 100 3.2″ LCD Viewfinder Loupe. That particular item appears to have been discontinued, but there is an alternative magnetic Elvid Loupe that would probably work. It’s a bit cumbersome, but better than trying to see the screen in bright sunlight.

    1. Hi Bill,
      I’ve tried using a Zacuto with my J5 and I found it ‘OK’ but cumbersome. I’ve found that adjusting the brightness on the J5 screen helps quite a bit in bright sunlight.
      Tom

      1. Yes, “cumbersome” is the correct word, which kinda defeats the purpose of N1.
        I also dialed up the brightness to +3; however, the Arizona sun is VERY bright!

        1. Hi Bill,
          Although I’ve visited your beautiful state a number of times when in corporate life, I’ve only been fortunate enough to visit for an extended photography-related trip one time. I concur that the Arizona sun is VERY bright indeed! I always wear a good, wide brimmed hat when out in sunny weather and I regularly use it to shade the rear screen of my J5 which can really help. It does necessitate shooting one-handed though.
          Tom

      1. Hello Tom,

        I am relatively an amateur photographer who likes to take pictures of family event and holiday destinations. I very recently purchased a V2 that came with 10-100 mm f/4.0-5.6 kit lens. What other lens do you think I should add to my kit? Do I need 10-30 mm and 30-110 mm given my 10-100 mm would pretty much cover the same focal lengths? What about lenses with fixed apertures like 10-18.5 and 32. Or 6.7-13 mm.

        Btw would 10-100 mm PD zoom be a good addition for videography? And what about 10-30 PD Zoom?

        Awaiting your suggestions.

        Thank you
        Neal

        1. Hi Neal,

          It is difficult to answer your question since I don’t really know all of your photographic requirements, but you did provide some reasonable insights.

          1) Since you already have the 10-100 mm f/4-5.6 zoom buying a 10-30 mm f/3.5-5.6 would not make much sense since it duplicates part of the focal length already covered by your 10-100 mm non-PD.

          2) I would not recommend the 10-30 mm PD zoom for video work if you are thinking on using the power zoom on that lens for video ‘push’ and ‘pull’ movements. The power zoom on that lens is not very smooth and it is quite noisy when the power zoom is engaged. The sound from that zoom will be transferred onto your video footage.

          3) Unless you plan on doing a lot of close up photography the 30-110 mm f/3.8-5.6 likely won’t make a lot of sense for you. You would get a bit more sharpness with the 30-110 and a bit more reach, but it does duplicate a lot of the focal range that your 10-100 already provides.

          4) Since you do a lot of family photography the 18.5 mm f/1.8 would be a sensible addition as it would extend your shooting in lower light conditions. I’m not sure about the 10 mm f/2.8 though. This is a fairly slow prime lens and if you shot at the wide end of the 6.7-13 mm you would be at f/3.5 anyway. The 32 mm f/1.2 is a beautiful lens, but fairly pricey. And, it does have a bit of an issue of the aperture becoming stuck in the stopped down position. If you have the cash and plan on doing a lot of portrait work, or want a lens that will provide shallow depth-of-field, then the 32 mm may make sense.

          5) For travel the 6.7-13 mm f/3.5-5.6 is a wonderful lens. I travel with that lens and the 10-100 f/4-5.6 and use them both extensively for almost all of my travel photography needs. It is also a solid lens for landscape, architectural and street photography.

          6) The 10-100 mm f/4.5-5.6 is a very good lens for video. It is large and heavy, but the zoom is very smooth and quiet. The lens does have a bit of an issue with shifting exposure slightly when doing very long ‘push’ or ‘pull’ movements, but other than that it is a very good lens to use for video.

          7) If you like birding and/or nature the 1 Nikkor CX 70-300 mm f/4.5-5.6 is also a very popular lens. It is the most expensive of all of the 1 Nikon lenses. In my mind it is worth every penny.

          Tom

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